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Koh Lanta for Easter – Part I

May 27, 2011

D and I went to Thailand for Easter – it was a trip we’ve been waiting to go on for over a year ever since we redeemed our plane tickets. After a grueling 3.5 hr flight from HK to Bangkok + 1 hr from Bangkok to Krabi + 50 minute car ride to the pier + 40 minute boat ride to Koh Lanta’s pier on the East + 25 minute car ride to the other side of the island, we finally arrived at our hotel, Pimalai Resort. It was a nightmare getting there*, but the hotel staff made the transfer as smooth and comfortable as possible.  The moment we saw the long stretch of beach we forgot about the journey anyway.

The Property

The best thing about Koh Lanta is that it hasn’t been ruined by tourists…yet. It used to be (and probably still is) a backpackers’ haven, so the establishments around town are relatively non-commercial. Pimalai Resort is probably the most upmarket hotel on the island and it shares Kan Tieng bay with a few other resorts and hippie bars. Ba Kan Tieng is a wonderful beach (with fine sand and crystal-clear waters) and I loved that we could just walk down the beach to check out our neighbours.

The hotel's private floating jetty

View from the upper lobby

Although the hotel can accommodate a large number of guests, we still felt relatively secluded because the property grounds are enormous and every thing is spread out. There are actually two sections at Pimalai, one that they call “the Resort”, down by the beach where the less pricey rooms are; and the “Pool Villa’s Estate” up the hills, where the pool villas are located, naturally.

Infinity pool at the Resort

Infinity pool at the Pool Villa's Estate, with an amazing view of the ocean

The Rooms

To our pleasant surprise, we were given a free room upgrade to the Bayfront Deluxe for the first two nights, before moving to a 1-bed pool villa for the remaining part of our stay. The Bayfront Deluxe room was more than decent – large bathroom, comfortable bed and a balcony facing the ocean; but of course, the pool villa was even nicer…you get your own kitchen there!

Our private pool at the villa

The Food

We didn’t try all the restaurants at the hotel as they have a whopping 8 restaurants and bars in total. For breakfast, if you stay at the villas you get to have it served at the Seven Seas Restaurant by the upper pool, which is probably the best restaurant at Pimalai. I highly recommend their Thai-style breakfast dishes, perhaps not so much the western stuff like Eggs Benedict.  We also dined at Rak Talay restaurant by the beach and ordered the BBQ seafood for two. The portion was on the small side and the quality of the seafood was mediocre… it was alright.

View of the poolside bar and the Seven Seas Restaurant (Upper deck)

Fish curry - absolutely delicious after a long day of diving

Steamed fish from Same Same But Different

As an alternative to dining at the hotel, head over next door to Same Same But Different for some Thai food. It’s definitely not the most “local” joint in town, considering the menus are in English and most of the diners are tourists; but the food quality is solid and they charge half the amount of Pimalai. Another option is to head over to Drunken Sailors, a cute little cafe that serves a delicious tom yum fried rice and other Thai fusion dishes. The food there is extremely affordable and they’ve got cozy bean bags and hammocks to lounge in as well.

All in all, the food at Pimalai was pretty good, particularly the dishes prepared by the Seven Seas kitchen. However, the great thing about Koh Lanta is that there are other options around town, so venture out! It’ll be worth it.

Chicken curry, Same Same But Different

The Service

Here is where I have minor complaints. If Pimalai wasn’t a 5-star hotel I wouldn’t give a damn, seriously, but in the end of the day it is one and one has certain expectations after forking out the money.

The difference in service quality between the two pool areas was obvious. While lounging at the “lower” pool, I had to wander around for 5 minutes to look for someone to give me towels. While the staff were more readily available at the other pool, service was slow. I mean…getting an ash tray took them 20 minutes. Really? The funny thing is, all guests are allowed at both pools. Talk about making you feel crappy for paying less.

The other thing that bugged me was when we ordered room service after a long day of diving. We had already moved to the pool villa and when the guy came with the food, he left right after dropping the tray on the table and didn’t even offer to help set the table. I had to look for utensils and glasses from the kitchen and set up the dishes myself. Not fun when you’re exhausted and starving. Perhaps the guy was new, who knows.

In terms of price, I thought Pimalai’s rates were reasonable. The rooms were fairly priced and I must say, the food there is almost “cheap” compared to other 5-star resorts.  So, despite the little hiccups in terms of service, I would consider Pimalai value for money, especially after you factor in the benefits of its location, i.e. proximity to some of Thailand’s best snorkeling/dive spots. BUT, more on that later. I am le tired. Goodnight.
 
*P.S. Our route to the hotel from Krabi was the longer one. The other one takes you directly from the pier to the hotel’s floating jetty. Unfortunately, we came at a time when the currents were changing so we weren’t able take the shorter route. 

Pimalai Resort & Spa
99 Moo 5, Ba Kan Tiang Beach
Koh Lanta, Krabi 81150,
Thailand
T: +66 (0) 75 607 999
W: www.pimalai.com
 
Next up… Part 2, Koh Lanta’s neighbouring islands
 

Love.

May 18, 2011

I’m still alive! I know I’ve been absolutely terrible with blogging these days. While I’ve been busy working and traveling for the past couple weeks, the truth is I’ve lost my blogging momentum after my last post on London. The good news is, I think I’m feeling it again.

April and May have been crazy. I’ve flown to three different countries, I’ve gone diving and even took a trapeze class (more on that later). But the most exciting and amazing thing that’s happened since my disappearance is the birth of the not-so-little guy below.

Congratulations (again) to my big sis V and her husband T, whose wedding I blogged about a while back. Your son/my (first!!) nephew is beautiful and I am officially OBSESSED with him. If only I could fly to NY right now and meet him in person. The time will come eventually.

Dylan Jesper M. Born May 13, 2011.

Broadway Market, London

March 26, 2011
IMG_1304

I was researching on local markets in London and I came across this article in Time Out London. I only had time for one market trip and the choice was down to two: Broadway Market or Spitalfields. In the end, I went for the former even though Spitalfields was closer and easier to get to. I just crossed my fingers and hoped that the market was worth changing my reservation at Modern Pantry and missing out on their brunch menu.

P.S. This was probably the farthest I’ve gone from Central London, D, a former Londoner, had no idea this place even existed. He should be ashamed!

And the verdict…

…I fucking loved it!  You’ll find everything from vintage clothing and furniture to beautiful design books; florists to little fashion boutiques. The highlight of Broadway Market though, was most definitely the food. Everything is locally produced and freshly made. You want seafood, got it. Bread, check. Desserts, yup. Oh yeah, one stall even had a proper hog roast going. Most of the stall owners are extremely friendly and even they are a great mix of different backgrounds and nationalities. I wanted to buy everything, eat everything; but alas, if only my already empty wallet and expanding waistline would allow it.

As usual, I won’t go much into details as you can get the information from here. But here are a few tips:

Don’t forget to…

  1. Bring your camera – this place is food photography heaven!
  2. Bring Cash.
  3. Get there before noon to avoid the crowd.
  4. Arrive with an empty stomach.
  5. Leave with a full stomach.  I hear the restaurants in the area are also great but I was too distracted by the stalls to check them out.
  6. No matter what you do, you must get your hands on one (or more) of Georgeta Decuseara’s eclairs…they are soo good.

A selection of photos I took at the market:

roast pork and cracklings in a bun

Go to Sporeboys for mushrooms cooked in olive oil and parsley, served with country bread

Roast leg of pork massale casserole from Sauce à Part

Freshly made spinach ravioli

Best chocolate and vanilla éclair I've ever had. D & I were going to share one but we ended up having one each.

London Fields Park

 

Broadway Market
E8 4QL, London
W: www.broadwaymarket.co.uk
Opens every Saturday, 9am – 5pm
How to get there: Take the London Fields Rail to London Fields Station. 

 

London Feasts: Hawksmoor Seven Dials

March 10, 2011

Finally got around writing the last of my London Feasts series. I know I know, it’s been over a month since my London trip, but you know the usual reasons…work, work, and more work.

The last proper meal I had in London was at Hawksmoor Seven Dials. I had high hopes. Perhaps too high because I left the steakhouse slightly disappointed. The meal wasn’t bad or amazing. It was just “pretty good”.

Best dish of the night - bone marrow with slow-cooked shallots

Scallop served on top of REALLY good mash.

Personally, I found their appetizers much better than the feature presentation – the steak. We had ordered the bone-in porterhouse to share. It was perfectly cooked to medium rare and the flavours were all there. The problem definitely wasn’t the execution of the dish, but the quality of the meat itself. It was a bit too lean and dry for my taste, and my jaw got tired from all that chewing. Of course, every person likes their steak a certain way, so perhaps British beef just isn’t for me.

As a restaurant, I liked Hawksmoor a lot. As a steakhouse though, I’ve definitely had better. If I had the chance, I would come back again…to try the bone-marrow filled Hawksmoor burger and lobster roll (I mean, check out the pics from London Eater here! How can anyone resist?). Oh yes, while this is a great place to go for drinks and dinner with friends (which is what I did), I wouldn’t recommend it for couples who want a romantic night out unless you want to shout over the table to be heard.

Hawksmoor Seven Dials
11 Langley Street
London WC2H 9JG
T: +44 (0) 20 7856 2154
W: www.thehawksmoor.co.uk
Reservations recommended.
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