Hanoi to Hong Kong over Land: Bun Cha Dac Kim

Bun Cha Dac Kim

Bun Cha Dac Kim

I found out about Bun Cha Dac Kim through those Chinese travel guides you find in Hong Kong convenience stores. The guide didn’t say much about the place, aside from the fact that it serves roast pork with vermicelli, one of my favorite Vietnamese dishes. It wasn’t until we asked for directions to get there that we realized Dac Kim is quite famous. The moment you say, Bun Cha Dac Kim? The locals go, ahh yes yes, very good very good. When are locals ever wrong? Rarely.

The place is not at all fancy and none of the restaurant staff speak English. Don’t fret – they only serve two dishes at Dac Kim, bun cha (grilled pork with rice vermicelli) and nem cua (deep-fried crab egg-rolls). A little finger-pointing and you’re all set to go.

Downstairs dining

Upstairs dining. There are a total of 4 floors. All packed.

The Food

Roast pork vermicelli served in Hanoi is not what you would normally get in Hong Kong, which I believe is the Southern Vietnam version of bun thit nuong. While bun cha composes of most of the same ingredients, the main difference is that the meat is served in a golden-colored broth made of sweetened vinegar and fish sauce, rather than a dipping sauce on the side.

From left to right: shaved celery, assorted greens (no idea what kind), rice vermicelli, grilled pork slices and minced pork balls

Once the bun cha was in front of us, D and I were at a loss. I am sure it showed on our faces because the customer who sat across from us started serving our food for us! Anyway, how to eat it: Put some vermicelli into your bowl, layer with the greens and meat, sprinkle lots of chillies, garlic and shaved celery. Lastly, top it off with the delicious broth. And there you have it, a bowl of heavenly goodness.

How I'd love to take a bite out of that wonderful smoky, charred meatball right now...

Tons of chilies and garlic..who cares about bad breath?

Every flavor and texture all at once: spicy, sweet, salty, crunchy, chewy, crumbly...

The only other dish served at Dac Kim is nem cua, otherwise known as deep-fried egg-rolls stuffed with crab meat. WOW. These were also executed to perfection – crispy on the outside, piping hot on the inside. I am salivating as I write.

Doesn't that look amazing?

Mmmmm.....

To be fair, this was the only time and place we had bun cha in Hanoi, so I’m not in the position to say whether it’s the among the best in the city. However, it was no doubt the highlight of my Hanoi food fest and I would totally fly back just to have another bowl. I really wish we had time for a second serving…sigh.

The Bill: Around 135,000VND (US$7) for 1 serving of nem cua, 2 bun cha, and 2 cokes. I suppose it’s “expensive” for Hanoi standards but one bowl will fill you up (even though we devoured everything). And come on…that’s still dirt cheap!